THE GUARDIAN: City breaks with kids
by Carolyn Boyd - Part One   PART TWO

I’m bored

Not any more … Nantes is a wonderland for kids and parents. The city, on the river Loire, has seen a cultural reinvention in the past 10 years and there’s easily enough to do to fill a week – or a few days en route south, as my family and I tend to do.

The best place to start is the Île de Nantes, the creative hub of the city on an island in the river. Here, the masterminds at Les Machines de L’ile Nantes have created a steampunk playground where a robotic elephant carries passengers on its back (rides €8.50 adults, €6.90 children) and sprays water on bystanders.

Nearby, a carousel inspired by Nantes native Jules Verne and his novel 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea whirls visitors around on mechanical masterpieces such as smoke-breathing dragons, flying fish and fearsome anglerfish (ride prices as above). It’s possible to tour the workshop and see future creations taking shape.

The fun isn’t limited to the Île de Nantes: every summer the city has a makeover with street art installations through a project known as Le Voyage à Nantes. The artworks, along with the permanent attractions, are linked by a route marked with a green line painted on the pavements. We spent an afternoon walking that line and hopping on and off the trams to see them.

Château de Ducs de Bretagne

One of the best historic attractions is the 15th-century Château de Ducs de Bretagne, a turreted and moated castle in the city centre, which is dedicated to telling the story of the city from the days of Queen Anne de Bretagne. Displays, videos and exhibits explain the history of Nantes’ kings and queens, the city’s shipbuilding past and links to slavery, along with its history of biscuit-making.

The city’s tram system is easy to use and the Pass Nantes (for one, two or three days; €25, €35, €45) means you can ride it with the added bonus of free access to many leading attractions for that one-off fee.